Versilia is a part of Tuscany that Europeans have known and loved for decades. Unlike the Chianti, Florence and Siena, which tempt the visitor to rush from one renowned artistic treasure to another, this coastal region invites you to slow down and relax. Those who love it dream of it on dreary northern days, feeling the warm breezes as they waft through the pine forests, picturing the sun-drenched Liberty-style villas and hearing the lazy buzz of crickets. Versilia is a uniquely European type of resort area, a tranquil combination of beauty, culture, history, nature and great food that has been the beloved retreat of many fine artists beginning with maestro Giacomo Puccini, who built a home you can still visit today in nearby Torre del Lago.Another artist who made his home here was Galileo Chini. You may never have heard of this Florentine, nor seen any of his works, but you have witnessed the effects of his talent all over the country. In the early part of this century, Chini was largely responsible for introducing the art nouveau style into Italy (where it is usually referred to as ''Liberty''). He founded a ceramics factory that created colorful objects which soon made their way into thousands of homes, he painted canvases that were hung in museums ranging from the Uffizi to Rome's Modern Art Gallery, and he designed sets for his close friend Puccini. Chini's stage designs for Turandot are the epitome of the Liberty style; perhaps because of them he was asked to fresco the Royal Palace of the King of Siam. Chini lived in the Orient for two years. When he returned to Italy he built a vacation retreat in Versilia and called it Villa Chini. Its large sunny rooms, delightful ornamentation and century-old park were the height of luxury. Today the estate is a charming small hotel where guests return faithfully year after year to enjoy warm family-type hospitality. Many of Chini's paintings, frescoes and decorations, such as a colorful stained-glass fruit basket, are displayed throughout the common rooms where guests can congregate in several sitting areas. His furniture and personal belongings are everywhere, including in the simple guest rooms, all of which have private bathroom, telephone and television. Some also have balconies overlooking the spectacular garden, whose towering trees and profuse sweet-smelling flowers make it a tranquil oasis completely protected from the bustling seaside resort town of Lido di Camaiore. At albergo Club I Pini, each day starts with a hearty buffet breakfast. Afterwards, you can stroll a short 200 yards to the broad sandy beach, which stretches for miles in each direction. Club I Pini's private beach is furnished with all the amenities you could desire. Or you might take a pleasant hike through the pine forests that line the shore. If you're ready to travel farther afield, jump in the car and drive inland to the Apuan Alps (a breathtaking spectacle few people know about) or the Garfagnana Mountains (one of the last remaining off-the-beaten-path parts of Tuscany). Or drive less than an hour south to the quasi-deserted, pristine nature reserve beaches between Castiglioncello and Punta Ala. Also within an hour's drive are Lucca, the Cinqueterre and the marble quarries of Carrara. If you're here in the summer, be sure to take in an outdoor opera performance at the home of Giacomo Puccini. Or stop in at a night club, discotheque or cocktail lounge in the neighborhood.